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Kathmandu
Valley and its Historical Ponds
By Amar B Shrestha
The
mighty sword of Manjushree drained out the Kathmandu valley, which
was once believed to be a lake. And ever since, Kathmandu has
remained the home to its elaborate Pokharis (ponds)
Come Chaitra/Baisakh (mid-March/mid-April), thousands of people
congregate around a pond in Handigaun. The crowd waits patiently
for hours. The local womenfolk are especially well turned out
and make up for a sizeable portion of the gathering. There are
a few tourists too (as can be expected) as well as quite a few
professional photographers moving around lugging their expensive-looking
cameras with big lenses. The occasion is the famous Gahana Khojne
(Search for Ornaments) festival, an annual event that is known
for the robust nature of the festivities associated with it. The
crowd is getting perceptibly impatient but no one has any intention
of leaving. They have come to be a part of this unique festival,
and they are determined to see it to the end.
Suddenly, the noisy clanging of cymbals and the distinctive beat
of drums accompanied by the shrill sound of trumpets can be heard.
Then the noise of loud shouting comes from numerous throats along
with the sound of many rushing feet. And suddenly it appears –
a tall wooden chariot carrying the image of a deity and pulled
by means of sturdy ropes by scores of young men, many of them,
invariably, quite inebriated. They pull the colorfully decorated
chariot into the knee-deep pond and begin to drag it in circles
in the water. They do this thrice before pulling the wooden contraption
out of the water onto solid ground again. Then there is a melee
as the devotees jostle around the chariot to pay homage and seek
the blessings of the god inside. After sometime, again accompanied
by much noise and revelry, the chariot is drawn back to the temple
where the idol is put back in its rightful abode. It is undoubtedly
an interesting festival, and Gahana Pokhari (Ornament Pond) is
the centerpiece of the whole affair.
This famous pond in Handigaun’s Ward No. 5 of Kathmandu
Metropolitan City is one of the many important sites in a locality
that is steeped in history and culture. Handigaun was the ancient
capital of Nepal during the reign of the Verma, Gupta and Lichhavi
kings until the 8th century. Its cultural wealth is evident in
the numerous sacred temples located here – all very important
historical sites. But then, so is Gahana Pokhari, a pond that
occupies an area of approximately 1,018 square meters, taking
into account its immediate vicinity. This pond, like many others
in the valley, has immense cultural and historical value.
Other
Historical Ponds in Nepal
The historical city of Janakpur has more than 100 ponds and
lakes having great religious and cultural significance. Many
of them have been totally ignored, resulting in their eutrophication
(the process by which a water body fills up with dissolved
nutrients from fertilizers or sewage, thereby encouraging
the growth and decomposition of oxygen-depleting plant life
and endangering other organisms). According to an NGO –
ECHO (Environment Conservation and Health Organization, Janakpur)
– among the once important ponds that have now become
extinct are Janak Sarowar, Amrit Kund, Gopal Sar, Payshune
Sar and Baldev Sar. Other ponds on the verge of extinction
include Dewan Pokhari, Telha Pokhari, Mahara Pokhari, Laxman
Sar and Papmochan Pokhari. Rishi Parashuram (a famous sage
of the Ramayana mythology) is said to have taken a long dip
in the lake known as Parashuram Kunda to cool down his anger
after confronting Lord Ram over the breaking of the sacred
bow during the pre-nuptial ceremonies of Ram and Sita. The
picturesque pond is located on the way to Dhanushadham from
Janakpurdham.
Lumbini, the birth place of Lord Buddha and about 327 km southwest
of the capital, is a revered pilgrimage destination for Buddhists
worldwide and a World Heritage Site. The sprawling Lumbini
Gardens is spread over eight square kilometers and its center
of attraction is the historic Mayadevi Temple with the famous
Ashoka Pillar nearby. To the south of this is the sacred pond,
Puskarini (or Holy Pond), where queen Mayadevi is said to
have taken a bath just before giving birth to Siddhartha Gautam,
who later came to be known as Lord Buddha. Prince Siddhartha
is also believed to have had his first purification bath in
Puskarini.
In the far eastern district of Ilam is situated the Mai Pokhari
at an altitude of 2,438 meters. Lying about 13 kilometers
away from Ilam Bazaar and having a circumference of more than
one kilometer, it is the largest pond in the area. There are
nine ponds altogether in the region some of which are also
quite large. This entire area is a great picnic spot. Every
year, during the ‘Harisayam Ekadashi’ festival,
a night-long fair is held near Mai Pokhari. |
Hitis
and Pokharis
In fact one could say that the valley itself was born of a pond
(albeit a very large one!). According to mythology, the Kathmandu
Valley was originally a lake known as Nagdaha that was full of
snakes (naga: snake deity, daha: lake). It was drained by a Buddhist
sage named Manjushree who had come to Swayambhu for meditation.
It is, of course, but a myth. What is true, however, is that in
the architecturally rich eras of the Lichhavi (2nd to 9th century)
and Malla (14th to 16th century) reigns, many wonderful stupas,
temples, and monasteries were built along with numerous hitis
(stone spouts) and pokharis (ponds) as well. Hitis and pokharis,
incidentally, have a close association with each other.
Hitis are complexes having one or more stone spouts usually carved
in the shape of crocodile heads (crocodile or makara in Sanskrit
is the vehicle of Ganga, the Goddess of water). These are fed
by rainwater collected in aquifers (layers of permeable rock,
sand or gravel through which ground water flows). To maintain
water flow even during the dry season, ponds were built nearby
as reservoirs to recharge the aquifers. These ponds, in turn,
were supplied water from one of three rajkulos, the canal systems
built to provide water for everyday use, irrigate farmlands and
fill the ponds. Today, only Lalitpur rajkulo has managed to survive
the passage of time. It is assumed that most of the hitis and
rajkulos were built during the Lichhavi period and King Mandev
is believed to have built the first hiti in Handigaun in 550 AD.
In Bhaktapur, Queen Tula Rani is credited with building the first
rajkulo and numerous hitis, in fact one per tole (neighborhood).
Sundhara, one of the best known hitis, was the last to be built
in Kathmandu (by Bhimsen Thapa in 1829 AD). Similarly, in Bhaktapur,
Bramhayani hiti was the last to be built in 1972.
 The
Major Ponds
Besides supplying water for general purposes, the ponds had another
important function – they served as water reservoirs to
fight fires as well. This was wise thinking as most of the houses
constructed in those days were that of wood. And although there
once were numerous ponds in the valley serving such important
purposes, encroachments due to urbanization have resulted in only
a few still surviving. One of Kathmandu’s biggest ponds,
Lainchaur Pokhari, has long disappeared. Now, in its place stands
the Nepal Scouts building. In Patan, among the few remaining ponds
today (and fortunately the most ancient one) is Guita Pukhu (pukhu
in Newari means pond) built by King Sarvananda. Similarly, Lagankhel
Pukhu, which was built by King Ashok Varma, is another old and
important pond. Among those in the valley that still remain, Taudaha
(in Chobar), Nagdaha (in Dhapakhel), Siddha Pokhari (in Bhaktapur),
Pim Bahal Pokhari (in Patan) and Kathmandu’s Rani Pokhari,
Nag Pokhari, Kamal Pokhari and Gahana Pokhari are some of the
better known ones.
Except for Kamal Pokhari, all the others mentioned above have
a cultural significance that makes it mandatory for locals to
visit them at least once a year. Taudaha, Nag Pokhari and Nagdaha,
for example, are visited during the Nag Panchami festival in Shrawan
(July-August), Rani Pokhari during Bhai Tika (Brother’s
Day, a part of the Tihar festival in October-November) and Gahana
Pokhari during Chaitra Purnima (March-April). Taudaha Lake in
Chobar, some 6 km southwest of Kathmandu, not only holds cultural
significance but is also important for its rich diversity of flora
and fauna. According to experts, it is the valley’s only
remaining natural lake that still serves as a habitat for a significant
number of wetland birds and so is valuable from the ecological
point of view.
Nagadaha in Dhapakhel VDC of Lalitpur District is a natural pond
that covers an area of five hectares (around 100 ropanis). And
some 8 km southwest of Kathmandu is situated Matatirtha Pokhari
(mata: mother, tirtha: pilgrimage/sacred site), which is visited
once a year in April-May by those whose mothers have passed away.
The rituals here involve a dip in one of the two adjacent ponds
followed by other rites. About 8 km north of Kathmandu, in Budhanilkantha
at the base of the Shivapuri Hill, is a large 5th-century stone
statue of the Sleeping Lord Vishnu reclining on a bed of snakes
and seemingly floating on the water in the middle of a small pond.
It is one of the most interesting of all religious sites (read
ponds) in the valley.
Famous
Lakes of Nepal
There are a large number of lakes in Nepal. Some of the most
famous are the glacial lakes of the mountain region like Rara,
Shey-Phoksundo, Tilicho and Damodar Kund all of which, as
anyone who has seen their photographs will testify, are stunningly
beautiful. Tilicho Lake, located at a height of 4,949 meters
in Manang District in the Annapurna range of the Himalayas,
is claimed to be the highest lake in the world. Rara Lake
in Mugu District of western Nepal is the country’s largest
lake while Shey-Phoksundo Lake is the deepest. Damodar Kund
is situated at an altitude of 4,890 meters in Mustang District
and has religious importance. It is visited every year by
both Hindus and Buddhists during the full moon day of August
when a big festival is held here. Phewa Tal in Pokhara is
famous the world over for its scenic beauty as are Rupa Tal
and Begnas Tal nearby in the same district. Gaduwal Tal (Chitwan),
Satyavati Tal (Palpa), Khaptad Tal (Doti), Barhakune Tal (Dang)
and Surma Sarowar (Bajhang) are some of Nepal’s other
well-known lakes. Saraswoti Kund and Gosainkunda in the Langtang
region are of great religious and cultural importance as well.
As a final note, the Ramsar Bureau designated and listed the
Beeshazar Tal of Chitwan District, Ghodaghodi Tal of Kailali
District and the Jagadishpur Reservoir of Kapilvastu District
as Ramsar Sites (wetlands of international importance) in
2003. Later, the same year, four new lakes, namely Rara, Shey-Phoksundo,
Gokyo and its associated lakes and Gosainkunda and its associated
lakes made it to the Ramsar list. The Convention on Wetlands
of International Importance, called the Ramsar Convention,
is an intergovernmental treaty that provides the framework
for national action and international cooperation for the
conservation and wise use of wetlands and their resources.
Negotiated through the 1960s by countries and non-governmental
organizations that were concerned at the increasing loss and
degradation of wetland habitat for migratory water birds,
the treaty was adopted in the Iranian city of Ramsar in 1971
and came into force in 1975. It is the only global environmental
treaty that deals with a particular ecosystem, and the Convention’s
member countries cover all geographic regions of the planet.
The Convention’s mission is “the conservation
and wise use of all wetlands through local and national actions
and international cooperation, as a contribution towards achieving
sustainable development throughout the world”.
Nepal is one of the contracting parties of the Ramsar convention.
Source: www.ramsar.org |
The
Ponds of Kathmandu
In Kathmandu itself, Rani Pokhari (literally, Queen Pond) is the
best known and most beautiful of all the ponds in the valley.
Its original Newari name was ‘Nhu Pukhu’ (New Pond)
and it was probably named so because there already were numerous
ornamental ponds in the valley before it was built. Rani Pokhari
and its immediate vicinity encompass about three and a half hectares
(62 ropanies). Located opposite Durbar High School in the Ratna
Park area, it is rectangular in shape and has a Shiva temple (Balgopaleshwar
Mahadev) at its center. Dating back to the 17th century, it was
built by King Pratap Malla to console Queen Anantapriya on the
demise of her youngest son. The temple is open to the public only
once a year during Bhai Tika, the final day of the Tihar festival,
when it is visited by those having no siblings. On the four corners
of the pond stand temples dedicated to Ganesh, Bhairab, Narayan
and Saraswati.
Nag Pokhari in Naxal, close to and on the eastern side the erstwhile
Royal Palace (now a museum), has a tall statue of a Naga King
(Serpent God) at its center. Nag Pokhari comes next only to Rani
Pokhari in terms of historical and cultural importance. And it’s
not only because of its location, situated as it is in a very
important locality with other significant heritages nearby, including,
of course, the palace. This pond, now well preserved and with
a park around it, especially comes to life during Nag Panchami.
Gahana Pokhari is located but a short distance away and it, too,
is maintained and well taken care of as a result of which it has
become the centerpiece of the Handigaun area. Kamal Pokhari (literally,
Lotus Pond) is also quite close to Nag Pokhari. Unlike the others,
though, it does not hold much significance – either historical
or cultural – but it does add to the beauty of the environment
of the surrounding neighborhood.
The
Ponds of Bhaktapur
Once upon a time, Bhaktapur, too, had numerous ponds or pukhus.
Today, according to bhaktapursansar.com, there still are 33 of
them in the city. Siddha Pokhari or Ta Pukhu (Big Pond) located
at Dudhpati (at the entrance of the city), is said to have been
built in the 15th century during the reign of King Yaksha Malla.
It turns into a focal point especially during the Dashain festival
(October-November). Considered to be the oldest pond in Bhaktapur,
it measures 275 meters by 92 meters and there are quite a lot
of fish in it. Another big pond is Barhe Pukhu (Lotus Pond) located
at Kamal Vinayak northeast of the city. Ancha Pukhu, to the
north of the city, has a stone image of the reclining Lord Vishnu
at its center, and it is a place where many religious events take
place.
Kancha Pukhu, to the south of the Dattatraya Square in Inacho
Tol, is architecturally very interesting. Its uniqueness lies
in the fact that one can see a perfectly reflected image of the
Nayatapola temple on its surface although it is situated more
than 500 meters away from the edifice. Nag Pokhari in the Palace
of 55 Windows in Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square is encircled
by writhing stone cobras rising up on pillars. Some of the other
better known ponds in Bhaktapur are Paleswon Pukhu, Bhajya Pukhu,
Guhya Pukhu, Bhanda Pukhu, Kaldah Pukhu and Dwinmaju Pukhu. Many
of the ponds have been used in the past as sites for holy baths
in reverence to various gods and goddesses. Ta Pukhu is associated
with the Goddess Indrayani while the Bhanda Pukhu was where holy
baths once used to be taken in reverence to Taleju Bhawani, the
royal Goddess of the Malla kings. During the full moon day of
August, people take baths in Kaldah Pukhu. And it is believed
that ailments like loss of appetite and malnutrition among infants
can be cured if they are bathed in Dwinmaju Pukhu.
 Ponds
in Patan
The Lalitpur Sub-Metropolitan City Office (LSMC) states that there
are 25 pokharis in the city today with the major ones being Prayag,
Jawalakhel and Pim Bahal. Pim Bahal Pokhari was built in the 14th
century and is one of the more famous ponds in Patan. However,
it had lain in a state of neglect for a long time. This ancient
city has somehow had some trouble maintaining its historical ponds.
According to a recent news report, however, three ponds –
Nehoo, Saptapatal and Purnachandi – have been earmarked
by the LSMC for extensive repair and renovation. This is mainly
an attempt to recharge the ponds by harvesting rainwater in order
to solve the city’s acute drinking water problem.
Not only in Patan, but all over the valley, authorities are making
renewed efforts to conserve and maintain the remaining historical
ponds. A great deal of success in the beautification and maintenance
of ponds like Rani Pokhari, Gahana Pokhari, Nag Pokhari and Kamal
Pokhari, as well as Siddha Pokhari in Bhaktapur, have been sources
of great encouragement. Such sites can give a boost to tourism
besides serving as inviting places to relax in for the locals
as well.
Besides, pokharis offer the cities a better chance to breathe
because of the open spaces they provide in the midst of concrete
jungles. In addition, people are now realizing the wisdom of their
ancient predecessors in that they had rightly given so much importance
to conserve water through the extensive construction of such reservoirs.
With the benefits that these ponds bring, it is not only historical
pokharis that need to be preserved. The construction of new ones
as well could augur well for the valley’s environment, and,
by extention, its residents. Pokharis have many things to offer,
not the least being the sight of cool water, which is always a
soothing sight, especially for the perpetually harried citizens
of the Kathmandu Valley.
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