Times of Trouble
As you walk down the street of Tripureshwor in Thapathali, there is a large compound of the Kalmochan Ghat where you can see the bronze statue of King Surendra Bikram...
Issue 107 | October 2010
“Scenes from my past sometimes cry out for description. They come back to me time and again, demanding to be put on to the printed page, as if the experiences...
As you walk down the street of Tripureshwor in Thapathali, there is a large compound of the Kalmochan Ghat where you can see the bronze statue of King Surendra Bikram...
Let me begin from the end. Scores of men scramble one atop the other to get inside the room. Women keep out. The room, the passage leading to it, the...
It is a great feeling when, just like that, a random scent triggers sweet memories. That happens to me a lot, and when it does, it triggers an avalanche of...
W hat if I told you that within the deepest Terai jungles, amongst the inhospitable swarms of mosquitoes and ants, between the tigers and rhinos, live a tribe, a community...
As per tradition, on the 8th day of Dashain (Asthami), hundreds of thousands of goats, buffaloes, chickens, ducks and pigeons are sacrificed to Goddess Kali. Seeing this, it might seem...
Hidden deep within the Himalayas is Humla – the highest, most northern and remote district of Nepal. This district is home to Limi Valley, an area untouched by modern changes...
W hen we were little kids, our main priority during Dashain was to buy new clothes and a new pair of shoes. Why, when I was 10 or 11 years...
Those in search of a Taleju Temple inside the Kathmandu Valley are in luck, for there are not one, not two, but three Taleju Temples here. The first is located...
For the ‘children’ of our extended, typically Newar family, we used to look forward to pujas (prayers) in Dashain and Tihar with eager anticipation. Our whole family would squeeze together...
During Dashain, the biggest Hindu festival in Nepal, you get to see people in many parts the country going from one place to another decked up in red, sporting distinctive...
Like many other groups use different calendars, Newars also follow their own lunar calendar, the Nepal Sambat. Nhu Dan (the Newari New Year) falls during Tihar, the “Festival of...
Somewhere in the distance a bell rings as a woman dressed in a red sari lights a ghee (butter) lamp. A young girl runs through a crowd of pigeons and...
Books on contemporary Tibet tend either to extol the virtues of Tibetan Buddhism and the Dalai Lama; or are traveler’s tales salted with exotic, other-worldly happenings; or they have a...